BIKE RIDE

HOI AN to HUE on the back of a motorbike

We'd been told all about the company 'Le Family Riders' who organise trips on motorbikes out of Hue in central Vietnam. The one day trip via the Hai Van Pass (as featured in the now 8 year old 'Top Gear' - Vietnam Special*) was near the top of our 'to do' list. It proved to be possibly our best experience and highly recommended. 

* Despite the years since this programme was broadcast, Jeremy Clackson, in contrast to his current falling star status in the UK, is regarded as some sort of demigod in this part of Vietnam. They sing his praises and give thanks to the fact that everyone visiting this area wants 'to do' the 'Top Gear' Ocean Cloud Pass - "a deserted ribbon of perfection - one of the best coast roads in the world". The PR has been welcomed, certainly by 'Le Family Riders'.

This day trip can be done in either direction. As we were in Hoi An we were collected from our hotel at 9 o'clock (on the dot) by Mr Thang and his son Dung. Our luggage we strapped on the back. Helmets were supplied and we climbed aboard to ride pillion on a journey we'll never forget.

See our map for a guide of the route and check out some of the numerous videos posted on YouTube by loads of fellow riders (links will appear at the end). They do capture it and bring it all back.

On yer bike

Marble Mountain > Danang > through the mad traffic to the airport, to collect some left luggage, we'd left when we arrived the previous Sunday, a good example of 'Le Family Riders' going out of their way to go the extra mile. Something that would continue all day, as they really looked after us.

Along the deserted waterfront at Danang and on to the 'Hai Van Pass'. Most of the local traffic goes via a tunnel under the mountains, so apart from a few trucks, one full of pigs, the pass was mostly clear and ideal for motorbikes with opportunities to pull over and admire the scenery as we made our way up the switch back road.

A little wind swept on top

Lunch with a view

After pausing at the top for views that showed the sun increasingly breaking through the clouds, lunch called and what a lunch too. A restaurant on stilts on the Lang Co bay lagoon called 'Son Hai' and a table full of fresh seafood, which was delicious, with a view to match.

Fed and watered it was back on the bikes as the narrow road skirted the lagoon, we sat back (not literally!) to enjoy the ride. A visit to Elephant Springs and a chance to swim, which we side stepped, so soon after lunch and because the waters looked more chilly than inviting.

Via a fishing community before finally engaging the late afternoon traffic into Hue. Darting in and out of all the other road users a small posse of orange bibbed 'Family Riders' pulled into town, veering off to various hotel destinations. 

Le Poseurs !  Mr Thang, Margaret, Bill and Dung.

We sat with Mr Thang and Dung one last time in our hotel lobby. Thanked them for their company on a brilliant day out and wished them all the success in the future. Vowing to return some other day for a different trip. Truth was, I'd have happily done the whole thing all over again the very next day. 

Cost was $58 (U.S.) per person - door to door. Food and drink was included, as was Marble Mountain and the Springs. Book online at www.lefamilyriders.com  You can mention us, but Clarkson will probably get you greater nods of approval. 

Our best view.  (There's those jackets again)

Links to other 'Hai Van Pass' videos as promised:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDZGSerol6Y  (this one is long, but very good - music soundtrack)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZLhWGukmok  (arty, black and white video, in the rain - music is The Doors "Riders on the Storm")

www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiPUdYu8YBc  (short video, but sweet)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=plB2ZURRjfc  (these people are on bicycles - the music is Mumford & Sons "Hopeless Wanderer")
www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jOFuCCwKXg  (another ride but no music just natural sound - 11min video)